WINTER ISN'T ALL THAT BAD...

Say 'Farewell to Winter' at The Silverspoon in Wayne From March 17-19 and 24-26, let this restaurant show you why winter isn't all that bad.
BY MICHELE KORNEGAY//PHOTOS BY JACKIE BOTTO

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, adieu. We’re sure you agree: It’s time to say buh-bye to winter and hello to sunshine, fresh air and warmer temperatures. (Mother Nature, are you listening?)

But before you trade in your snowboots for flip flops, The Silverspoon is inviting you to enjoy its “Farewell to Winter” menu, on the calendar for two Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, March 17–19 and 24–26. The menu promises “the best of winter's last glories,” lightened up and gorgeously presented during a six-course prix-fixe feast.

At a preview menu tasting at the cozy Wayne BYO, my colleagues and I indulged in and were spellbound by the restaurant’s roster of late-winter offerings. With a mission of proving that winter foods needn’t be boring, The Silverspoon surprised with colorful, whimsical plates and light-as-air fare in addition to more hearty, comforting dishes that you’d expect this time of year.
We began with the Winter Compost Pile, served on the restaurant’s signature silver spoon. The amuse bouche is grounded by a base of pumpernickel mushroom “soil,” atop which the deft hand of Executive Chef Tim Courtney layers salsify, dried brussels sprout leaves and fermented chili and carrot puree, coated with a dusting of cauliflower “snow” and drizzled with truffle oil. The crunchy, earthy bite set the tone for the meal to follow.

Brassicas soup, hand-poured at the table by our server, followed with a burst of the most vibrant shade of purple—case in point that winter fare need not be colorless. The tangy puree of red cabbage swirled around dollops of pickled mustard seed caviar, kale spice and sea salt/honey-brined Dutch cabbage before we spooned in to mix it all into one delicious mélange. Similarly bright and colorful: the winter greens salad, a sweet-salty marriage of radicchio and endive tossed in a raw honey vinaigrette and accented by Cara Cara orange slices and shaved aged goat cheese.

The first of the main courses, Roots from the Cellar, arrived accented by a pretty in pink sauce that hinted at the spring to come even while staying true to the meal’s winter theme. A flavorful shaved root veggie slaw packed with purple cabbage, carrots and beets and dressed with cider vinegar and yogurt provided the base for generous portion of perfectly-cooked Arctic char graced by a delightfully crispy skin.

Our tour of winter flavors continued with a course From the Forest, a divine woodlot-pastured pork ragu atop house-made potato gnocchi. The rustic ragu, slow-cooked in-house for eight hours and pumped up by hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, reminded us all why we love winter comfort foods so much.

For the crowning touch, we ended our meal with Silverspoon’s hearty Cold Stored Autumn Fruits Cobbler, a dessert reminiscent of winters in grandma’s kitchen. A warm base of chunky Anjou and Asian pears and apples revealed itself beneath a perfectly light and crunchy cinnamon biscuit; sitting on top, a scoop of creamy house-made toasted oat-infused ice cream.

Attentive service enhanced the meal, with our knowledgeable server providing details not just about the preparation of each course but also about the origins of the ingredients on the menu. Silverspoon prides itself on showcasing local, sustainable products year-round.

After indulging in winter’s finest at The Silverspoon—dare we say it?—you may not want to say goodbye just yet. Reservations for the “Farewell to Winter” dinner can be made online or by calling the restaurant.
503 W. Lancaster Ave. (in Eagle Village Shops), Wayne, (610) 688-7646
 www.silverspoonwayne.com

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